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An interview with Ken “SkinDog” Collins about the unique experience of “Maverick Moments” [video]
Posted Feb 20th, 2012 at 6:20 PM and seen 4340 times

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An interview with Ken “SkinDog” Collins about the unique experience of “Maverick Moments” [video]

Frank Quirarte Photography

Mavericks rolls out the red carpet for the surfing world, according to Ken “SkinDog” Collins, because a gift of Nature as wondrous as Mavericks is one that never stops giving and provides more than enough adventure for all who seek the thrill of these incredible waves.

Filmed February 8, 2012, “Mavericks Moments,” a production of The Go Big Project and Chasing|Monsters, features footage and feedback from some of the world’s top big wave surfers, including Shane Dorian of Hawaii, Grant “Twiggy” Baker of South Africa, as well as local legends Nic Lamb, Anthony “Tazzy” Tashnick, Pete “The Condor” Mel, Tyler Fox, and, of course, Ken “SkinDog” Collins.

Maverick Moments: Episode 1 from The Go Big Project on Vimeo.

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Holy Kaw got the incredible opportunity to ask Ken more about the surfing experience and community of Mavericks, as well as to get his input on the more dangerous aspects of surf this extreme—a subject he’s unfortunately become all too familiar with.

HK: Do you sleep the night before a big wave day?

SkinDog: I used to have a hard time falling asleep the night before a big swell, but now I am getting old and tired, so sleeping is not a problem, getting up is the issue. Ha ha.

Eric Gillespi – The Go Big Project

HK: For you, Mavericks is a local wave. How do you feel about non-locals coming over for the big wave days?

SkinDog: I love watching new guys come and charge, seeing the next generation of big wave legends push the limits. At the same time, anyone visiting needs to know they are a guest, and should be good guests. All in all, Half Moon Bay hosts many world-traveling big wave riders, and they take good care of them. The community there is small and cozy, and they to like to see new faces and hear new stories. Some of the travelers will hang out for a month or two and pick up a side job at The Old Princeton Landing, a local watering hole, and really get to meet the roots of the community.

HK: There are occasionally three or more surfers dropping in on a wave but everyone seems cool about it. Is everyone really that friendly?

SkinDog: It is not cool, but it happens. When you are paddling for a wave that size your blood is pumping and your mind is racing a million miles a minute. When you are at the point of catching a wave, it is too late to pull back, you will end up getting sucked over so you have to go. If someone is dropping in on guys over and over, they get called out. Dropping in on another surfer is against the code of conduct, and you should never burn anyone no matter what size the surf is. The biggest waves usually seem to have the fewest guys paddling for them.

Eric Gillespi – The Go Big Project

HK: The water’s cold, the waves are big – how long is a good session?

SkinDog: With the guys all wearing 5/4/3 (a thick wetsuit) a majority of the time, we can surf for four to five hours. Keeping water and bars in a PWC (personal water craft), you can refuel to stay warm and stay out all day, or about eight hours.

HK: A big outside set can pummel you. How do you avoid getting rag dolled?

SkinDog: Don’t get hit. If you get hit, you’ll get pounded. You can only handle a couple beatings out there in one session, then you’re cooked and out for the day.

Eric Gillespi – The Go Big Project

HK: Did you have any bad hold-downs on this day? What was it like?

SkinDog: My first wave, I hooked an outside rail and went down hard, karma for dropping in on T Fox. I had a total of four waves hit me, and they rag dolled the hell out of me. I was winded and seeing stars when I came back out. I have a V1 wetsuit with an expandable air bladder if I need it. I was down on one of my waves so long I was thinking about pulling the cord, but popped up right then.

HK: How big would you estimate the wave face was on the ride that was highlighted in the video?

SkinDog: I do not know. My board is 10 foot 7 inches, so there’s a starting reference. All I know is it looked pretty big looking down, and I did not want to go, but it was so glassy I had to. I don’t care how big it is, all I know is it was one of the most beautiful, glassy blue walls I have ever caught out there, and I am just happy I made it to the bottom.

Frank Quirarte Photography

HK: PWC (personal water craft) are banned in the Monterey Bay National Marine Sanctuary. Why is that a big deal for surfers at Mavericks?

SkinDog: It is a big deal for Mavericks surfers because we use the PWC as Rescue Devices. There’s not a better machine for going into the heavy, thrashing waves to pull out a surfer in trouble.

Every lifeguard in the world has a PWC next to the lifeguard tower, to go in and pull people in trouble out. When Jacob Trettes drowned last year, my surf buddy, Russell Ord (Australian Firemen/rescue), was out watching over us on my PWC. It was illegal to have it out there, but thank god it was, because Russell was able to rush into the rocks, pull out Jacob’s body, drain the water from his lungs and have him on the beach to perform CPR, all within two minutes. Marine rescue would have taken thirty minutes to get to Mavericks, so you can see the importance of having a friend on a PWC watching over you and shadowing your moves.

HK: How do you feel about women out there on the big wave days? (My wife made me ask this.)

SkinDog: At first, you would think Mavericks is not a place for women and children, but after surfing out there for twenty years now, I have seen the ladies get plenty of big waves and ride them with skill. They are going to have to let some of them in the contest pretty soon or have a women’s event.

HK: So what do you do when you are not chasing after those big waves up at Mavericks?

SkinDog: I am the Northern California Sales Representative for Volcom Stone Clothing. It is an action sports brand that sells product to all the surf/skate/snow shops. So, when I am not surfing, you can find me driving all over NorCal to all the surf/skate/snowboard shops. It is a really fun job because my accounts are really cool mellow people that live the boardsport lifestyle. One week I might be on the beach selling bikinis, and then the next week I might find myself up in Tahoe selling Gore-Tex outerwear for the snow. I usually bring a paddle board with me so I can train by doing 5-10 mile paddles on Lake Tahoe, Folsom Lake, or any body of water I can find. I also have a wife and 2 kids and chasing after them is big part of my life. I am really lucky because I work with my wife, so we get to spend a lot of time together. We travel as a famiy, do a little business, then go snowboarding or something cool.

• More big wave action at Chasing|Monsters.
• More Mavericks stories at The Go Big Project.
• Mavericks photos at Frank Quirarte Photography and Mavsurfer.
• Video at Vimeo.